One of the highlights of Kaokoland in the far northern reaches of Namibia, Epupa is a magical belt of makalani palm forest on the perennial Kunene River.
There's something special about this Kaokoland refuge 180km north of Opuwo, where the Kunene River plunges into the gorge below. Baobab trees cling to the rocky slopes as torrents of water rumble and tumble down the rocks with a flash of rainbow and an invigorating burst of wonder.
Two hundred metres upstream from the cascading falls, Omar...